One Magical Month in Merida- Week One

Below is the blog created by Ken during our month in Merida, Yucatan, Mexico.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Off we go!

Well it all starts here. Packing up four people plus a video production business is nightmarish to say the least, but we're almost ready to go! Looking forward to lots of family adventures in the Yucatan, plus working on a video project that will help less fortunate children get the education they deserve.
Gotta finish packing, then off to Philadelphia airport to catch our flight. I hope it's uneventful, or this is going to be the shortest blog in history!

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Merida at LAST!


Well the flight to Merida was a more pleasant experience. Lukas just watched the Muppet Show while Emma found a kindred spirit in the 10 year old Quaker girl she was seated next to...they drew each other pictures and giggled together. Yes, you heard right, I said a Quaker girl, on a flight to Mexico. Emma with her blue teeth & tongue from sucking on a ring pop, seated next to a proper little Quaker girl. It's anybody's guess what her parents thought of that!
We finally made it to Casa Walker after 11pm (local time) and WOW! Fantastic. Lots of room and plenty of Mexican style. Center courtyard with a pool, two spiral staircases and a rooftop balcony. Too late (and too tired) to describe it all right now but pictures will come soon enough. I see this blog posts at Pacific Time, it's definitely not Pacific Time, it's like 2am here, and that's an hour past home time!
Anyway, here's a couple of pics before hitting the sack. Busy day ahead!
A very late dinner in our new casa... grilled jamon con queso (Authentic Mexican style, of course!)
Toy Story 3. It's everywhere!
Trying out the dipping pool before bed. Gonna be fun!

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Day One is a Real Eye-Opener...

Yesterday was our first day in Merida, but there was to be no rest for weary travelers. As the timing would have it, it also happened to be the last day of school for Yucatecan children... which means scrambling forces to shoot some video for EducaTE, the non-profit organization we've chosen to assist during our stay here.
We got our business phone line set up then started the day by backtracking to the airport to pick up our rental car, some pesos from the ATM, Burger King for lunch (ugh, out of necessity!) and a phone card. The rental manager has loaned us a cellphone to use for the month (US cellphones work down here, but the roaming charges are obscene). Then since we're in new territory, we managed to get lost and drive all around Merida for an hour trying to find our way back to the casa. That left about a half hour to gather equipment and change to meet our project hostess and tour guide for the day.
Cherie is a very interesting woman who along with her husband, sold everything and moved to Merida from North Carolina three years ago. Before that she was a wildlife photographer in Kenya, where she was plagued by drought, pestilence, sandstorms, and general turmoil before escaping back to the US. So life in Merida is paradise for her!
We drove with Cherie to meet up with our translator Aliza, then journeyed to a Mexican home in Cholul. There we interviewed a family with three children that attend school with the support of the EducaTE program. While education is free for all children in the Yucatan, uniforms are mandatory, so they must find a way to supply their own, along with books, water and toilet paper. When the child comes from an impoverished family, EducaTE can be there to help.
This first family suffered through damage to their home from the tropical storm that recently moved through the area: broken windows and a crack in their plaster ceiling where the rain water flooded in. They already have so little, but their contentment is clearly in simply being together as a family, even living under such adverse conditions. The parents struck us as being so in love with each other after many years together, and visibly proud of their children. Two of the children aspire to become veterinarians while the third hopes to become an entrepreneur and open a shop that sells blouses & clothing.
To help feed the family and make ends meet, the children have a car washing business that may bring in a few extra pesos from time to time. However, with it being considered the rainy season in the Yucatan, many folks skip washing their cars, so their business is struggling. We learned that many days, they may share only one meal, or even have nothing to eat altogether. Surely it must be very hard for children who want learn to focus on studies with an empty stomach.
While Jennifer and I videotaped and interviewed the children, the mother entertained Emma & Lukas by playing soccer with them in the other room.
Afterwards, the kids spent some time hugging some puppies and cuddling up to a brand new kitten, or gatito, en español.
We could have easily spent all day with this delightful family; even though they spoke no English, they were so expressive and grateful, it was in some ways strangely easy to understand them.
We left there to visit another family living elsewhere in Cholul, and record the story of their eldest daughter Gloria, who hopes to attend University some day. It was heartbreaking to see her extended family of eight, living in a rooftop dwelling consisting of three rooms. Three young girls regularly play on the rooftop, which in some areas has no railing or wall, because it has crumbled away. This is the home for grandmother, mother, three daughters and a son, with his wife and newborn baby.
Gloria's story was as compelling as those heard earlier in the day, and her mother and grandmother are just as proud. As we wrapped up and were packing up our equipment, they appeared out of nowhere with a beautiful pineapple cake they had all chipped in together to buy at the bakery to thank
us. This speaks volumes since these people have so very little yet they are so gracious and thankful to both us and the EducaTE program. We all shared cake with them on the rooftop in a celebration that was very touching.
Our final stop was the end of the school year celebration starring many of the secondaria (middle school) students of Cholul, just outside of Merida. This is a grand fiesta celebrating the Mexican culture, and showcasing the dances and musical numbers learned by the students throughout the school year. Their costumes are handmade in gorgeous bright colors, and the talent of the students is clearly evident. Everyone noticed the gringos with the blonde children videotaping the event, so they were sure to publicly announce that a camera crew had travelled from Norteamericana for the fiesta, and expressed their gratitude.

It was a long day, and we were all hot and sweaty and on the verge of dehydration. After wrapping up the shoot and going home to clean up, we treated ourselves to a wonderful meal at La Casa de Frida. Finally, an authentic Mexican meal! Chicken enchiladas with a spicy chocolate mole sauce...out of this world.
A very important day for us; very busy and both physically & emotionally demanding, but extremely rewarding for all.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

Getting Settled in Merida

Shorter post today: We all slept late (8:30am is late when you have Lukas) then went for a walk to the 'parque' so the kids could play on the see-saw and swings and sip some delicious pitaya juice (it's green with small pulpy seeds in it). Wandered the market to pick up some sliced mangos and papayas and stopped at the bakery for pastries. However, when we got back, the papayas turned out be some kind of strange red potato or vegetable. Not very tasty for breakfast...we'll pass on that next time!
Later we all took an extended siesta (nap) as we are still recovering from the long day before. After waking, the kids cooled off in the pool. I managed to pull off a pizza delivery order via phone...in very poor spanish. Boy, that was grueling! But what a deal: a large chorizo pizza and a smaller cheese pizza plus a free bottle of soda for between 7 and 8 bucks? You can't touch THAT at home! And it was really good. REAL pizza!
We found our way to Walmart (it has a marble facade) to stock up on groceries for the house. Spent lots of time trying to decipher labels, identify foods, and read nutritional content (we haven't been eating real healthy lately, ya know?) And best of all, we found our way back to the house once again. We're getting better at this!
Slowly getting settled in Mexico... maybe we'll get to the beach soon!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Finally, we hit the beach!


Today we made our way to the beach in Progresso for the first time. Crystal clear water and powdery sand combined with lots of sun made for a great day. The kids were certainly having a great time playing in the sand and splashing in the calm surf.
Progresso has the longest pier in the world at an amazing four miles long. Trucks and buses shuttle back and forth, since it's used for shipping and the occasional cruise ship. Few gringos around today and plenty of room on the beaches, so it seems there are no cruise ships docked currently.
We had lunch right on the beach under a palapa at the Shark Restaurante, then bought Lukas a conch shell from a passing vendor.
He learned right away how to use it as a horn, so spent the rest of the time being the beach lifeguard. He felt very important as he blew his conch shell from the edge of the water, waving each of us left or right, or out of the surf from time to time!
Oh yes, and Emma wore another one of her signature floppy hats to the beach: both stylish and functional. So not to worry, Aunt Robin...we're protecting those little blonde heads!

Hangin' Around Town


We decided to spend our fourth day in Merida to take care of some housekeeping and see the local sights. There was some rain forecast for late afternoon, but the morning was beautifully crisp and clear, so off to a good start. At least this morning, Jenn didn't hurl a breakfast pastry at my head like she did the previous morning (she CLAIMS she was swatting away an insect, but I know whether to believe THAT one).
Our internet connection went down, so we headed to the Merida English Library which is a handful of blocks away. There you can use the computers for online access, plus Jenn wanted to look for a Mexican cookbook she read about. The kids enjoyed looking at books in the children's room, and we happened to run into Cherie again, who was there for the internet as well.

We picked up our laundry at the lavanderia and flagged down the water truck as he passed down our street. 40 liters of water for just $2.78 US. Another bargain.
Then sandwiches for lunch and siesta time for all. Lukas must have been exhausted; he slept for more than 2 hours.
After naps it was pool time as the storm clouds rolled in right on schedule. Not very long and it was a full downpour, so the kids had a blast swimming in the rain.
Dinner out at Pancho's, which was nice although a bit touristy... every patron in the place was a gringo, so we weren't really feeling the authentic Mexican vibe as much. Jenn had informed the kids that Pancho Villa was a bandit, so every time the busboy came out to clear tables (wearing a bandana on his head) Lukas called out "the bandit!"
Afterwards, the rain had stopped so we wandered around to visit some shops and hear some music. Saturday nights, they close some of the streets for vendors and artisans to show off their wares, so there was lots to see. Plus, every other block has a monument, park, or cathedral, which are lit up nicely after dark.
We wrapped up the night with tasty tropical sorbets: mango, mamey, and guanabana. Jenn had the best of the night; it was an intriguing blend of vanilla, tropical fruit, and rum. Mmmmm! We'll have to go back and get more so we can find out what flavor it was.
So, certainly not a wild and crazy day today, yet pleasant all the same.

Sunday, July 18, 2010

How you feelin'? Hot, hot HOT!


Domingo en Mérida está muy caliente!
Every Sunday in Mérida is a fiesta, as entire streets close down and parks fill up with art, music, food, and fun. We headed out to Calle 60 to be a part of the action, and there was lots of it! Picked up some handcrafted doll clothes for Emma and looked at Mexican antiques, before stopping to watch couples dancing to latin rhythms in Parque Santa Lucía. What's striking about Mérida is it's reverence for senior citizens; they are as much a part of the action as everyone else. No rocking chairs here!

By then the heat was in full gear, so it was the perfect time to cool off with some coconut ice cream.
The churches and cathedrals in Mérida date
back several centuries, so we stopped to check out some of the stunning architecture as we made our way over to the Plaza Grandé for more live entertainment. Street mimes, clowns, and strolling minstrels, and plenty more food. A nice sense of community and lots of friendly folks, even though we are clearly 'las turistas'.

A very entertaining mariachi band took over the square to entertain hundreds of onlookers with music and dancing, before the sweltering
heat gave way to a heavy but brief downpour of rain. We headed back to our casa to let the kids cool off and nap before getting ready for dinner out. We're thinking Italian food at Pane e Vino is in order tonight...plus it's AIR CONDITIONED!
One Magical Month in Mexico- Week Two
Maybe Grandpa Sullivan had a reason to be cantanke...
 

Comments 1

Already Registered? Login Here
JUSTIN ERIK CORMIER on Tuesday, 15 November 2011 15:10

Great video tribute for your 40th. The kids singing h-bday at the end is priceless! Great job.

JC

Great video tribute for your 40th. The kids singing h-bday at the end is priceless! Great job. JC