One Magical Month in Mexico- Week Two

Below is the blog created by Ken during our month in Merida, Yucatan, Mexico.

Monday, July 19, 2010

Monday? Back to School!



Our Italian dinner out Sunday night provided more confirmation of just how tightly knit the expat community in Mérida really is. We got to talking to a couple of senior ladies from California, who were smitten with Emma & Lukas and craving some"grandchildren" to shower with attention. Turns out they are friends and neighbors of Cherie's, our new friend from the EducaTE organization. It's really such a small world down here!


Speaking of Cherie, she picked us up the next morning for our second day of shooting for the EducaTE video project we began working on last week. Even though school is out for the summer, she and Aliza arranged for some students to return to the school in Cholul so we could get shots of class in action. We staged some shots of them interacting with the teacher, taking notes, and walking around campus. Once again, Aliza acted as our interpreter.

Then we took a trio of girls for some shots in the brand new computer lab. The school in Cholul is one of the very few to get a grant for computer equipment to expand the curriculum. The computers are used, so some of the mice don't work properly and some of the keys don't function, but this is still a tremendous opportunity for students that would have no access otherwise, and for that the administrators are grateful. Two of the girls have never seen a computer before, so they were feeling a bit intimidated. They got a quick lesson while we got all the shots we needed. We got lots of shots here since it was air conditioned!

Once again, Emma and Lukas were so well behaved; we are so grateful to have two terrific kids! Even with all of the heat and being out of their environment (plus the language barrier) they managed to occupy themselves and have fun so we could get the work done. The young girls they met last week heard we were back in town, so they came by the school to visit. They colored together, played hide & seek, and climbed trees together. Emma tried to organize a game of tag, but I don't think anyone was ever able to offer her a translation!

Then...
back to the house afterward for a bit of rest and freshening up before dinner. We enjoyed some Yucatecan meals on the open air patio at Portico del Peregrino, since the evening skies were clear. Had to swat a few mosquitos away, so the waiter put a repellent coil under our table. That's Mexico!

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Some days just aren't easy...

Ok, time to be brutally honest. Not EVERYTHING can be perfect in paradise. Take this mosquito thing, for example. Sure, I get that it's considered "the rainy season" in Mexico, so you expect a few more bugs buzzing around. Plus, that tropical storm that passed through before we got here sure didn't help. I've been patient. But now they're getting on my nerves.
Don't get me wrong... there are no giant swarms of mosquitos. No, they're much too stealthy for that. I'm convinced that there are actually only 3 or 4 mosquitos that follow us around everywhere. And that's because as soon as you try to nab one of them, they vanish. Inexplicably. They only come out of hiding as soon as you give up looking for them. Mexican mosquitos are sneaky little chameleons, and they thrive on making me look like a fool, swatting and clapping at nothing but air.
Now that I've gotten that out in the open, I can post about yesterday. I needed to follow up on some emails and get some editing done, so Jenn decided to shop as the locals do by heading out to the open air markets in the morning. However, not many vendors were still open and the pickings were slim, so she bypassed the freshly plucked headless chickens, and ventured straight to... Walmart. No ordinary Walmart, the SUPER Walmart with the marble facade and the underground parking garage. In Mexico, they don't mess around.
Emma stayed home with me while the pool guys cleaned the pool and repaired the fountain for us. The sun was still shining by the time my editing was completed, so I headed up to the rooftop to have a look around and to snap a few pictures.
I wasn't really too concerned when Jenn & Lukas didn't return after a couple of hours; they were going grocery shopping after all and with our previous attempt at deciphering labels, I knew it could take awhile. It wasn't very far away. After the third hour, I reminded myself that Mérida is the safest city in all of the Yucatan (as I paced back and forth, checking the phone, my mind reeling with the possibilities). By that time, the sky had darkened to a dismal grey, then almost black as the clouds opened up and the rain began to pour down.
Finally, I spotted a shadow through the glass front door. It was Jenn and she was had fire in her eyes. It seems she had picked out a whole cart of groceries, gotten to check out, and had the bank decline the transaction because it was the first time she was using her debit card in Mexico. Even though there was plenty in the account and we had already informed the bank about our trip. We had used MY cards with no problemo, but now with her card for the same account, no can do.
She promptly got on our business line (our Mexican cell won't call the U.S.) and gave Bank of America an earful before heading all the way back to Walmart to get the groceries. By this time it was pouring, roads were flooding, and most of the items in her cart were gone. So, she went shopping for a second time.
By the time she returned, it was close to 4pm which left just a short while before we were expected for dinner at Cherie's house. So a quick shower and scramble and off we went...
Cherie's house is simply stunning. The original structure must be over a century old and it's been redesigned by her husband Greenwood, who's an artist. A beautiful open layout with a brand new addition and a huge backyard and sunken pool. The intricate pasta tile throughout most of the home is all original, but looks brand new. I've never seen anything quite like it back in the states.
Spending time with Cherie and Greenwood was an absolute pleasure. They are gracious hosts and seem to be very caring people. Greenwood spends time with kids weekly at a local orphanage, teaching them art. This evening, he took time to show Emma & Lukas their collection of Mayan artifacts, and they had a blast playing instruments, hugging pets, and creating their own art as well.
For such a difficult day, it certainly ended on a pleasant note. And you know, even though we spent the whole evening chatting outside on the patio, there wasn't a single pesky mosquito in sight.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Wednesday: Dzibilchaltun


Yesterday was a day where the pictures can pretty much do all the talking. A mostly cloudy day, so we left Mérida and visited the ruins of Dzibilchaltun, about 10 miles to the north.
Discovered in the 1950's, Dzibilchaltun was once a great Mayan city, home to as many as 40,000 people. Artifacts have been discovered that date back to around 500 B.C.
Even with an occasional drizzle of rain, the kids had a great time climbing some smaller pyramids and exploring caves all over the ruin site. The cloud cover actually worked in our favor today, allowing us to explore longer and take lots of pictures without sweltering in the hot sun.
Here are a few more good shots exploring the ruins...





Trapped...
in a Mayan catacomb
With the kids at the top
Kids surveying their kingdom
Emma on the sacbé to the final temple
The centerpiece of the ruin site is the Temple of the Seven Dolls, which is named for the seven figures found inside of the temple. It's thought to have been an astronomical observatory, since the sun lines up precisely through its windows during the spring and fall equinoxes.
As our explorations at Dzibilchaltun were winding down in the afternoon, a pretty steady rain began to fall. Since we were already getting wet, we decided to cool off with a swim in Cenote Zlacah which is on the grounds. A cenote is like a well; it's a sinkhole that connects to subterranean fresh water.
As we rounded the jungle growth near the cenote, it became very plain that two gay caballeros were getting a bit too friendly for a family-style establishment. And since they had chosen to display their affection for each other in the shallow end of the cenote, that meant we had to trek all the way around to the deep end with the kids. Of course, that's the side that is over 140 feet deep. Nevertheless, our kids had a great time splashing around in the cool water with hundreds of tiny fish swimming all around them. And thankfully, they never took any notice of the show at the other end of the water, which continued without any regard for the children or families present. Neither of us are ready to field those types of questions yet!
Once we were done swimming, the jungle mosquitos chased us out of the area pretty quickly. By the time we headed home, we were extremely hungry, having only fed our kids cookies and juice for lunch earlier (another great parenting moment). We'd had a full day, so we decided to order pizza once again.
My confidence with the Spanish language was growing daily, so the telephone ordering process had only a few minor hiccups this time. However, it became apparent that "salchichas" does NOT mean sausage, because I managed to order us a hot dog pizza for dinner. Another gourmet meal for the Cornine family. Oh well, when you're hungry, hot dog pizza really isn't half bad.

Friday, July 23, 2010

It's all happening at the ZOO


Many would be surprised to find that there is a pretty extensive zoo right in the heart of Mérida. The Parque Zoologico del Centenario was established just over a hundred years ago, and it's a fun place for families to enjoy a refreshing change of pace.
We spent a good portion of Thursday strolling through the park, taking in the scenery, and visiting all the zoo animals. We started by circling the zoo by train, then headed to the playground so the kids could run around and get some exercise.
In the early 1970's, an old Cessna was found in the jungle and added to the playground as a jungle-gym and slide. It's the first thing that catches your eye as you enter the play area, and as you can guess, the kids loved climbing inside to be the pilots. Lots of other families seemed to be enjoying themselves in spite of the heat. (What am I saying? Mexicans don't feel the heat!)
Then it was cotton candy and icy refreshments before heading into the zoo area to see the animals. The lions were pretty lethargic and the hippos stayed cool in the water. The flamingos were having a smackdown, which was disturbing, so we moved on.
I tried to get a closeup shot of a monkey, but the darn things wouldn't sit still, so I settled for a cute little baby deer instead.
After a couple of hours at the zoo, we stopped at the Super Aki to pick up a few household supplies. The kids helped out, so we ended up with Mexican Twinkies and Tang in crazy exotic flavors.
Then it was off to have lunch and frozen mocha frappés at the Olive Cafe on Paseo Montejo. The sun was in full force as we took in the sights of Mexican city life all around us. Lukas did his best to look cool and sophisticated.
Once we were back home, the little guy took a nap while the rest of us headed up to the rooftop to lounge in the hammocks and enjoy the sunshine. Emma was thrilled that she was getting away with doing something 'grown up' while Lukas was sleeping.
For dinner, Jenn prepared tasty 'pollo del horno' (that's baked chicken for you gringos back in NJ). The regular house owners must not do much cooking, because Jenn kept complaining about the lack of a measuring cup and other basic kitchen tools.
At nightfall, a thunderstorm was brewing on the horizon, so we put the kids to bed and took our wine glasses up to the rooftop again to watch the show. As we witnessed the crazy lightning streaking across the sky (at a safe distance, don't worry), the moment was made all the more memorable by the sounds of a local band streets away, practicing Elvis' Jailhouse Rock...in Spanish, of course.

A beach day in Chelem


A blogger's work is never done. I'm already posting two days late! Trying to get caught up today with some down time at home.
We were blessed with some sunshine on Friday so we headed out to explore the beaches at Chelem, a sleepy little fishing village just west of Progresso. This is certainly a more remote area, and one can imagine how easy it would be to drop out of society by settling here. The roads turn to sand as you drive closer to the shore, so we found one where we could pull up and make camp in relative isolation.
The beaches in this section of Chelem are not particularly wide, so we chose the concrete patio of a vacant hotel to drop our belongings and have lunch. The kids spent much of the time playing in the sand and combing the beach for seashells. The plan is to string them together to make necklaces. Occasionally, giant pelicans flew by overhead, usually when the camera was put away in the beach bag. Lukas calls them pterodactyls.
Later, we explored the shoreline and encountered several buildings that clearly suffered extensive damage due to previous hurricanes. Beach erosion has claimed a good amount of sand from this stretch of Chelem, but other areas seemed to fare much better. Jenn chose the wrong spot to cool off in the water, because she cut her foot on a boulder sized rock on her way out. Much different from the beaches we encountered in Progreso, where the bottom was silky smooth sand.
No afternoon showers on this day, so we got a good deal of sun before heading back to the casa. That night we enjoyed some Yucatecan cuisine in the open air courtyard of Amaro, under a clear and star-filled sky. We enjoyed some margaritas and I tried my first chaya shake, which was pretty tasty. Chaya is a leafy green herb that is native to the Yucatan and has more nutrients that spinach (so it's sometimes called Tree Spinach). Although the raw leaves are toxic, the cyanide they contain cooks out and becomes a traditional drink. That's me, living on the edge! Of course, Jenn doesn't tell me these things ahead of time, so maybe she's just looking for an insurance payout so she can settle down here full time.
Some live latin music drew lots of other patrons to the restaurant, so we spent most of an hour trying to get our check once it was time to go. When in Mexico, you're on Mexico time!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

A quiet Sunday at home


Not every day can be an adventure; some days you just need to take time to regroup and get caught up. Sunday was one of those days to catch up on work, get organized, and plan out the days ahead.
We were granted another sunny morning so we started the day with a nice breakfast up on the rooftop. Then Jenn did some shopping while I caught up on the blog and did some editing for a commercial that needs to get done this week. I wouldn't want a trivial thing like work to get in the way of our adventures! The charge on the camera battery had dwindled down to zilch, so only a few pics before it went on the charger.
The kids occupied themselves watching Spanish cartoons for awhile, then I hooked up the Wii so they could play some games just like they used to back home. After that, it was time to hit the pool for more than an hour before lunch, then some rest and relaxation.
In our travels around town, these billboards caught our eye...
Near as I can tell, this one says, "We have more black moments."
Yes, that's Sprite Negro. Black Sprite.

And speaking of black moments...the raccoon look is all the rage. Sometimes you CAN have too much UV protection.
Tonight, Emma got to play chef and help her her mom create 'The Bean Thing.' It's Jenn's signature recipe for Mexican comfort food. A bit spicier than usual for some reason!
Oh well, that's it for today. We're keeping our eyes peeled for a piñata for Lukas birthday this week, and hoping to hit the road tomorrow on another quest for adventure. We'll keep you posted!

Un día con los amigos


Saturday morning started with a trip out to the Mercado Fresco de 'Slow Food' Yucatan, which is an organic food market held by a collection of expats here in Mérida. Here we chatted with some nice folks and even ran into Aliza, our interpreter for the EducaTE video project. She has an organic garden, and was there selling her spicy arugula among other things. Sampled some tasty treats (even Korean food!) and brought several back with us, like fresh baked apple bread, cocoa muffins, caramelized onion bread with fresh goat cheese, and dulce de ciricote, along with the arugula for the evening's dinner.
Back at the house, the kids spent some time 'cooking' on the living room floor, then we met up with Cherie and Greenwood for lunch at La Chaya Maya, a great spot for authentic Yucatecan & Mayan cuisine. Chaya was an important staple in the Mayan diet, and since I survived my chaya drink from the night before, we both sipped chaya with our meals today. And since my crepes were made with chaya flour, I hope to stay healthy for the rest of the trip!
The meals were delicious and even the kids ate very well, especially since these dishes are completely foreign to their North American palates.
They enjoyed watching the Mayan woman making corn tortillas by hand.
After lunch, a quick walk back to Cherie's casa for a swim in the pool and plenty of sunshine. The kids played games with Greenwood, and then got an art lesson as they painted their very own wooden signs. They also enjoyed giving the pets lots of attention. It's so nice to have new friends who enjoy making us feel right at home in Mérida!


That evening, dinner at home prepared with the ingredients picked up earlier, then up to the rooftop to enjoy the clear skies, full moon, and cool breezes. Ahhh, now this is the life!

Legacy
One Magical Month in Merida- Week One
 

Comments 2

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Tom Cormier (website) on Tuesday, 24 May 2011 10:52

You make me want to go!! This is a fantastic story about an extraordinary experience.

You make me want to go!! This is a fantastic story about an extraordinary experience.
Tom Cormier (website) on Saturday, 04 June 2011 14:24

Jen,

You have lived quite an interesting life...so far!!! This is a rare treat that few of us would ever know. Thank you for sharing it with us.

Jen, You have lived quite an interesting life...so far!!! This is a rare treat that few of us would ever know. Thank you for sharing it with us.